Captain Bill

Type:
artificial reef, tugboat, McAllister Towing (Boston)
Built:
1950, Jakobson Shipyard, Oyster Bay, NY as Hazleton
Specs:
( 110 x 27 ft ) 199 gross tons
Sponsor:
Herb & Veronica Segars
Sunk:
Wednesday November 10, 2004 - Axel Carlson Artificial Reef
GPS:
40°03.104' -73°59.283'
Depth:
75 ft
"Hazelton on the East River"
Doing tugboat stuff as Marie Casho
Captain Bill reef
Marie Moran
Captain Bill reef
Captain Bill

Built in 1950, by Jakobson Shipyard Incorporated of Oyster Bay, New York (hull #328) as the Hazleton for the Lehigh Valley Railroad Company of Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. In 1963, she was acquired by the Moran Towing Company of New York, New York, where she was renamed as the Marie Moran.

In 1984, the tug was acquired by the R.J. Casho Marine Towing Company of Wilmington, Delaware, where she was renamed as the Marie Casho. In 1986, she was acquired by Captain Arthur Fournier of the Penobscot Bay Towing Company of Belfast, Maine, where the tug was renamed as the Captain Bill.

In 2004, the tug was reefed off of Bayhead, New Jersey as part of an artificial reef program, where the tug was renamed as the Veronica M. Named for the wife of a longtime local diver and underwater photographer Herb Segars.

Powered by a single Cleveland 16-278A diesel engine, 1,600 horsepower.

Paul Strubeck, Captain Brian Fournier
tugboatinformation.com

Captain Bill reef
Captain Bill reef
Captain Bill reef
Captain Bill reef

The sinking of the "Veronica M" took 4-1/2 hours and 40 seconds. The block of the 1750 hp diesel engine is still inside, as well as the 120" bronze propeller. This tug is one of the largest ever sunk as a reef in New Jersey. Compared to others in the area, it is massive.

Captain Bill reef
side-scan sonar image
Captain Bill reef
Pilot house shaggy with hydroids one year later
Herb Segars Photography

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mitts

Diving gloves should be close-fitting, with long, gusseted, zippered, or Velcro gauntlets that overlap your suit sleeves. This is especially important with a drysuit, since the glove will protect the delicate wrist seal on the suit. Thin tropical gloves are of very limited use in the north - your gloves should be at least 5mm thick. Three-fingered mitts are much warmer than five-fingered gloves and are really not much clumsier. They are also much easier to get on and off, which makes me wonder why so few people use them. A little spray soap will make any glove easier to get on.

A hood is critical for maintaining warmth in the water. A good hood will be as close-fitting as possible, and have a generous collar for tucking into your wetsuit, thin skin-in seal around the face, and baffled vents in the top to release bubbles. A neck skirt is much less necessary with a drysuit, but it is a simple matter to cut one off if you don't like it. A neoprene cold-water hood should be at least 5-6mm thick.

The face-hole of a hood should be as small as possible - there is no reason to expose any skin here. The face seal of the hood should overlap your mask skirt, with just barely enough room below for your regulator. You can always trim out a too-small face-hole, but a too-big one pretty much negates any other good qualities a hood may have. Ideally, with mask and hood on, you should expose a small patch on each cheek, and no more.