Delaware (1/3)

Shipwreck SS Delaware
Type:
shipwreck, steamer, USA, Clyde Lines ( see Mohawk )
Built:
1880, Hillman Ship & Engine Building, Philadelphia PA USA
Specs:
( 250 x 37 ft ) 1646 gross tons, 66 passengers & crew
Sunk:
Saturday July 9, 1898
fire below decks, burned to waterline - no casualties
Depth:
75 ft
compass

There is actually quite a bit of this old wooden steamer left. A linear array of rather large but low pieces is clearly recognizable as the remains of a ship, beginning with the bow and anchor assembly, back through the boilers, engine, drive shaft, and propeller, with hull ribs, copper sheathing, and other wooden remains throughout.

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Depending on how the sand shifts, you may find a long chain extending from the bow, ending in a rusted clump, but no anchor. This is perplexing, since a large mass of chain and ( until recently ) the ship's anchor and are still evident on the bow structure. The explanation is this:

The morning after the fire, the burned-out hulk was found and taken in tow by salvagers. It promptly sank, at which point the salvagers would have had no choice but to let loose their end of the tow chain. As the extra chain rattled overboard, it would have sank and formed a pile at the end of the tow.

Shipwreck SS Delaware side-scan
side-scan sonar image

Conditions tend to be murky and dark ( bring a good light ), and there is usually a moderate current present. Several large sections of decking lie off the main axis of the wreck, and if you unknowingly stray onto them you can find yourself lost. Otherwise, navigation is not difficult, as the main wreckage is fairly straight and contiguous.

Shipwreck SS Delaware bottles

Jacksonville Steam Bottling Works (left) - the most often-found bottle on the wreck. Other cargoes include 'dry goods' like pipes, suspender clips in several different styles, and buttons. The square bottle at right is California Fig Syrup.

Lobsters disappear very quickly from this often-visited wreck, but there are still a few good ones, strategically located out of reach. The Delaware is usually crawling with big crabs, Sea Bass and Blackfish. The alley between the boilers is especially productive for spearfishing. Oddly, the last time I was on it, I could not find one single sea anemone, although the wreck is fairly well covered with white coral.

Small brass artifacts, primarily hull spikes, are still recovered, but the easy ones are long gone, so bring a hammer and chisel. Capt Steve adds: "You can still find pennies, brass suspender clips, bullets, and assorted smallish trinkets in her bow sections, with a lot of patience and fanning the sands. In her stern, you can still find Jacksonville Steam Bottling Works soda bottles, olive jars, and lineament bottles, and even a case or two of old leather shoes; not for the fashion-minded however." the best digging is between the chain pile and the boilers.

Shipwreck SS Delaware
Shipwreck SS Delaware
Clyde Lines Flier
Enlarge
Shipwreck SS Delaware boilers
The engine, viewed over one of the boilers.
Shipwreck SS Delaware
An air pocket inside the engine forms an upside-down tide pool.
Shipwreck SS Delaware propeller
Looking down the shaft at the propeller
Shipwreck SS Delaware
The top of the engine, with a school of Triggerfish
Shipwreck SS Delaware

Clyde Lines apparently built a new Delaware to replace this one, since a New York pilot boat is listed as having been run down by such a vessel in 1912. Pilot boats were small sailing craft in those days, nothing like the Sandy Hook.

The bell of the Delaware was recovered years ago. But a large vessel may have more than one bell, and in 2010, diver Harry Maisch recovered this bell from the bow wreckage.
With hindsight, the bell is unmistakable in this old photo. Could there be another in the stern?

Side-scan sonar image, diagram, and comments courtesy of Capt. Steve Nagiewicz.

Clyde Lines flag
The Clyde Lines pennant
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mitts

Diving gloves should be close-fitting, with long, gusseted, zippered, or Velcro gauntlets that overlap your suit sleeves. This is especially important with a drysuit, since the glove will protect the delicate wrist seal on the suit. Thin tropical gloves are of very limited use in the north - your gloves should be at least 5mm thick. Three-fingered mitts are much warmer than five-fingered gloves and are really not much clumsier. They are also much easier to get on and off, which makes me wonder why so few people use them. A little spray soap will make any glove easier to get on.

A hood is critical for maintaining warmth in the water. A good hood will be as close-fitting as possible, and have a generous collar for tucking into your wetsuit, thin skin-in seal around the face, and baffled vents in the top to release bubbles. A neck skirt is much less necessary with a drysuit, but it is a simple matter to cut one off if you don't like it. A neoprene cold-water hood should be at least 5-6mm thick.

The face-hole of a hood should be as small as possible - there is no reason to expose any skin here. The face seal of the hood should overlap your mask skirt, with just barely enough room below for your regulator. You can always trim out a too-small face-hole, but a too-big one pretty much negates any other good qualities a hood may have. Ideally, with mask and hood on, you should expose a small patch on each cheek, and no more.