New Jersey Artificial Reefs (4/18)

New Jersey Artificial Reefs

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Type:
artificial reef, tugboat, McAllister Towing (Boston)
Built:
1950, Oyster Bay, Long Island, NY as Hazleton
Specs:
( 110 x 27 ft ) 199 gross tons
Sponsor:
Herb & Veronica Segars
Sunk:
Wednesday November 10, 2004 - Axel Carlson Artificial Reef
GPS:
40°03.104' -73°59.283'
Depth:
75 ft

Captain Etzel reef
Type:
artificial reef, barge, US Navy
Built:
1968, Philadelphia Naval Shipyard, as YC-1504
Specs:
( 110 x 32 ft )
Sponsor:
US Navy, Clark's Landing Marina
Sunk:
Wednesday July 6, 1994 - Sea Girt Artificial Reef
GPS:
40°07.910' -73°56.168'

Captain Henry reef
"Captain Henry" - the bow ramp appears to have been welded up
Type:
artificial reef, LCM-6 (Landing Craft-Mechanized) used as buoy tender
Built:
1943 New Orleans LA USA
Specs:
( 56 x 14 ft ) 64 tons
Sponsor:
Bureau of Coastal Engineering, Fish America &
Cape May County Party & Charter Boat Association
Sunk:
Sunday May 6, 1990 - Cape May Artificial Reef
GPS:
38°51.200' -74°42.280'

Car Float #52 reef
The Car Float barge is pushed up the Navesink River below Twin Lights. The tugboat is the Billy D, later sunk on the Shark River Reef.
Type:
artificial reef, barge
Specs:
( 270 x 39 ft )
Sponsor:
East Coast Tender Services
Sunk:
Wednesday February 10, 1988 - Sea Girt Artificial Reef
GPS:
40°07.135' -73°56.919'


Carol Moran reef
Type:
artificial reef, tugboat
Built:
1949 Orange TX USA
Specs:
( 100 x 27 ft ) 240 tons
Sponsor:
Atlantic County Reef Society, Fish America, 1000 Fathom Club
Sunk:
Tuesday July 17, 1990 - Atlantic City Artificial Reef
GPS:
39°15.449' -74°14.173'
Depth:
90 ft



Caterina D reef
Type:
artificial reef, trawler
Built:
1973 - Bishop Shipbuilding, Aransas Pass TX USA as America 200
Specs:
( 70 ft ) 137 gross tons
Sponsor:
Manasquan River Marlin & Tuna Club
Sunk:
Tuesday April 24, 2007 - Axel Carlson Artificial Reef
GPS:
40°01.650' -73°59.747'
Depth:
80 ft


New Jersey Artificial Reefs

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regulator

First stages come in several forms. Your main options are generally:

  • balanced or unbalanced
  • piston or diaphragm
  • sealed or unsealed

Manufacturers will try to make a big deal out of these and various other features. Here's what I think:

  • balanced or unbalanced - Today only the very cheapest regs are unbalanced designs. Breathing performance will suffer, and any reg that cheap will likely be deficient in other areas. There is no reason to buy an unbalanced first stage.
  • piston or diaphragm - This doesn't much matter, there are good designs that use both systems - worry about other things.
  • sealed or unsealed - This refers to whether or not water can enter the first stage. If water can enter, then so can sand and grit, which will inevitably cause a malfunction, probably while you are in the water. Also, for cold-water diving ( not ice diving, just cold water, say 45°F ), the water inside the first stage could actually freeze, with the same result. Do not buy an unsealed regulator for use around here. In fact, don't buy one, period. Sealed designs are generally more expensive to buy and maintain, but it is worth the extra cost. Some regulators ( Genesis, Sherwood ) accomplish the same effect without technically being sealed. This is just as good, maybe better, because the design is simpler.

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