Military Reefs (1/6)

These are all reefs that have some connection to the military or Coast Guard, including DPC tugboats.

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Alan Martin reef
Type:
artificial reef, tanker, US Navy, YO-20 class
Built:
1918, Todd Shipyards, New York NY USA, as YO-31
Specs:
( 161 x 25 ft ) 335 tons light, 911 tons full-load
Sponsor:
Crystal Oil Corporation, Marine Trades Assn. of NJ, Fisherman Magazine
Sunk:
Thursday September 10, 1987 - Sea Girt Artificial Reef
GPS:
40°06.440' -73°41.130'
Depth:
125 ft




Type:
artificial reef, drydock (3 sections)
Built:
?
Specs:
( 133 x 96 x 54 ft )
Sunk:
May 20, 1985
GPS:
38.515281 -74.525933
Depth:
120 ft

Boston Lightship WLV-189 reef
Type:
artificial reef, lightship, USA
Name:
Named for the harbor that it served as marker for during its long active career.
Built:
1946, Devoe Shipbuilding, Bay City MI USA
Specs:
( 128 x 30 ft ) 630 tons
Sponsor:
Atlantic County, Trump Casino, Atlantic City Seafood Festival, Artificial Reef Association, Atlantic County Party & Charter Boat Association
Sunk:
Friday January 28, 1994 - Atlantic City Artificial Reef
GPS:
39°15.444' -74°14.004'
Depth:
85 ft



Military Reefs

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regulator

First stages come in several forms. Your main options are generally:

  • balanced or unbalanced
  • piston or diaphragm
  • sealed or unsealed

Manufacturers will try to make a big deal out of these and various other features. Here's what I think:

  • balanced or unbalanced - Today only the very cheapest regs are unbalanced designs. Breathing performance will suffer, and any reg that cheap will likely be deficient in other areas. There is no reason to buy an unbalanced first stage.
  • piston or diaphragm - This doesn't much matter, there are good designs that use both systems - worry about other things.
  • sealed or unsealed - This refers to whether or not water can enter the first stage. If water can enter, then so can sand and grit, which will inevitably cause a malfunction, probably while you are in the water. Also, for cold-water diving ( not ice diving, just cold water, say 45°F ), the water inside the first stage could actually freeze, with the same result. Do not buy an unsealed regulator for use around here. In fact, don't buy one, period. Sealed designs are generally more expensive to buy and maintain, but it is worth the extra cost. Some regulators ( Genesis, Sherwood ) accomplish the same effect without technically being sealed. This is just as good, maybe better, because the design is simpler.