Artifacts & Shipwrecks

Most people think of artifacts as small items of historical and sometimes monetary value that can be found, recovered, restored, and displayed. Artifacts like this include glassware, china and porcelain, brass portholes, coins, fasteners, and many other items that were either part of a sunken vessel's construction, carried as cargo or personal belongings, or simply dumped as garbage.

Anatomy of a shipwreck - the Delaware.

However, in a broader sense, any man-made object in the ocean is an artifact, whether you can pocket it or not. The sunken ships and barges that we dive on are artifacts themselves. While the sea quickly destroys many features of a sunken ship, there are a number of significant components of the hull, drive train, and ground tackle that survive to this day, and are often still identifiable, if you know what you are looking at.

Many people don't seem to know what they are looking at. They swim over a bunch of lumps, a high spot here, some kind of thing over there, and maybe find a propeller, but never really know what the pieces are or what they were used for. Being able to identify the basic parts of a ship(wreck) can tell you not only about the history of the site, but is also invaluable in underwater navigation. The basic construction of a vessel's hull, be it wood or metal, also generally survives in some form, and can tell you a lot about the age and type of the wreck.

Small artifacts are arranged here by material - brass, wood, etc. The purpose is not to serve as a trophy case, but to show typical examples of common items. Large artifacts ( those that are too big and heavy to be recovered by a single diver ) are grouped together under Ship's Structures. Descriptions assist in identification and understanding of historical significance. A gallery of common vessel types is also included.

A section on common materials includes those which are most prized as artifacts, including brass, bronze, and glass, not to mention silver and gold. Other materials, such as rubbers and plastics, and miscellaneous metals like stainless steel, aluminum, and lead are included because of their importance in the manufacture of dive gear. Finally, an extensive and highly technical section on the conservation of marine artifacts is included.


mitts

Diving gloves should be close-fitting, with long, gusseted, zippered, or Velcro gauntlets that overlap your suit sleeves. This is especially important with a drysuit, since the glove will protect the delicate wrist seal on the suit. Thin tropical gloves are of very limited use in the north - your gloves should be at least 5mm thick. Three-fingered mitts are much warmer than five-fingered gloves and are really not much clumsier. They are also much easier to get on and off, which makes me wonder why so few people use them. A little spray soap will make any glove easier to get on.

A hood is critical for maintaining warmth in the water. A good hood will be as close-fitting as possible, and have a generous collar for tucking into your wetsuit, thin skin-in seal around the face, and baffled vents in the top to release bubbles. A neck skirt is much less necessary with a drysuit, but it is a simple matter to cut one off if you don't like it. A neoprene cold-water hood should be at least 5-6mm thick.

The face-hole of a hood should be as small as possible - there is no reason to expose any skin here. The face seal of the hood should overlap your mask skirt, with just barely enough room below for your regulator. You can always trim out a too-small face-hole, but a too-big one pretty much negates any other good qualities a hood may have. Ideally, with mask and hood on, you should expose a small patch on each cheek, and no more.

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