DPlan - Conservatism

This is where things get interesting. D-Plan offers an assortment of conservatism options for you to experiment with. Each is selected or disabled by the check box, and any or all may be used at once. By default, all conservatism is turned off. There is actually a good argument for that: when planning a dive ( or cutting a table ) you want the fastest schedule that will get you out of the water safely. Conditions permitting, you then extend that in the water - 'on-the-fly' conservatism. If for some reason, you need to hurry up, and we all know that happens sometimes, you can dive the schedule to the edge and still be reasonably safe, whereas a schedule with a lot of built-in padding leaves you wondering what you can do while that shark circles or the storm builds or your bladder bursts.

GF-high serves two purposes in D-Plan. If used alone, it is the standard Buehlmann conservatism factor. Mathematically, it specifies how far into the "decompression zone" you are willing to go. 0.20 follows as close to the decompression "floor" as is likely to allow ascent, resulting in unrealistically long deco times, while 1.00 goes all the way to the limit of the model, ie no conservatism at all. Decompression stops regulated solely by this parameter are noted as "GF-hi Stops" in the program output. GF-high is limited to values between 0.20 and 1.00.

GF-low is similar to GF-high. If used alone, it behaves exactly as GF-high, and has the same limits. Like GF-high, extremely low values of GF-low will result in unrealistically long decompression times. Decompression stops regulated solely by this parameter are noted as "GF-low Stops" in the program output.

When used together, GF-high and GF-low become the high and low factors in the Baker Gradient Factor method. In this method, the actual conservatism factor used at any depth lies somewhere between the two, starting out on the first ( deepest ) stop equal to GF-low, and gradually changing to GF-high by the last stop. The effect of this is to generate relatively brief deep stops, without grossly exaggerating shallow stops. Decompression stops regulated by the Gradient Factor method are noted as "GF Stops" in the program output.

PR-High and PR-Low are very similar in concept to Gradient factors but instead work by limiting the maximum compartment pressure ratio during ascent. ( Whereas classical Gradient Factors work by scaling M-Values. ) Either one can achieve the same result, with pressure ratios being mathematically somewhat easier to implement. Finally, there is an option for whether the 'high' factor should be used at the last stop depth, or at the surface. Using the surface is a bit more conservative.

Decompression stops determined with no conservatism factor applied are noted as "Norm Stops" in the program output.


mitts

Diving gloves should be close-fitting, with long, gusseted, zippered, or Velcro gauntlets that overlap your suit sleeves. This is especially important with a drysuit, since the glove will protect the delicate wrist seal on the suit. Thin tropical gloves are of very limited use in the north - your gloves should be at least 5mm thick. Three-fingered mitts are much warmer than five-fingered gloves and are really not much clumsier. They are also much easier to get on and off, which makes me wonder why so few people use them. A little spray soap will make any glove easier to get on.

A hood is critical for maintaining warmth in the water. A good hood will be as close-fitting as possible, and have a generous collar for tucking into your wetsuit, thin skin-in seal around the face, and baffled vents in the top to release bubbles. A neck skirt is much less necessary with a drysuit, but it is a simple matter to cut one off if you don't like it. A neoprene cold-water hood should be at least 5-6mm thick.

The face-hole of a hood should be as small as possible - there is no reason to expose any skin here. The face seal of the hood should overlap your mask skirt, with just barely enough room below for your regulator. You can always trim out a too-small face-hole, but a too-big one pretty much negates any other good qualities a hood may have. Ideally, with mask and hood on, you should expose a small patch on each cheek, and no more.

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