The Basics
The first purchases most new divers want to make are fins, a snorkel, and a mask. The mask and the fins are necessary for diving, but while snorkeling is easy in the clear, warm, shallow waters of the Caribbean, local conditions do not favor it, as the bottom is seldom visible from the surface. None of these items should be very expensive.
2016 Update
Not much has changed in the 20 years since I first wrote this guide. These were glass, silicone, and plastic back then, and they still are. Modern stuff may be sleeker than the old models that are pictured here, but really not much has changed. I still have the first mask I ever bought, and still use it. That comes from taking good care of your gear.
Masks come in hundreds of models and designs. Options include one to six windows, purge valves, color tinting, anti-fog coatings, and whatever else the corporate marketing guys can think up.
A mask's purpose is to let you see in the water. It is surprising just how narrow your field of view in a mask actually is, although you get used to it. Generally, the closer the main windows are to your eyes, the wider your field of view, and this is good. Side windows are supposed to increase your field of view, but they also move the main windows away from your face, and at any rate, you can easily turn your head to get the same effect. A few masks also have bottom windows, which are useful for inspecting yourself or your gauges.
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Fins come in a bewildering assortment of designs. Options include long, short, vented, solid, soft, hard, open-heel, full-foot, and a wide range of specious do-dads, most of which solve problems that I cannot confirm even exist. One manufacturer has even come out with fins that are left and right, something that I think must be truly bothersome while gearing up.
The fact is, most fin designs simply miss the mark for New Jersey divers. What is needed here is a solid, tough fin with a generous foot pocket that will hold not just your foot, but also whatever bulky thing your foot is in. This will be at least a 6mm booty, if not a drysuit boot with perhaps several pairs of socks underneath. Simple solid buckles with quick releases are essential. You will be amazed at how strongly your fins may stick onto your feet at the end of a dive. Small vents in the toe of the foot pocket help here, to break the vacuum.
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Here is an item that is useful in the tropics, but much less so around here. This is because the water here is not nearly as crystal clear as in the tropics, and the depths are often greater. Therefore it is unlikely you will be able to see anything interesting below from the surface.
On a boat dive, a snorkel is totally useless - leave it home. Chances are, the captain and crew will tell you to take it off anyway. The same is generally true for inlet diving where the entry is steep. A snorkel is just one extra thing to get tangled up, and you will probably have enough of that already. A snorkel might be useful in a surface swim from the beach out to a close-in dive site, if it is a good one with purge valve or a dry valve to keep the water out entirely. Even then, you are better off doing a backstroke out to the site, with your head out of the water so you can navigate by landmarks, or an underwater swim if the currents are favorable.
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2016 Update
Computers and electronics change so fast it is hard to keep up with it. The general recommendations below should hold up pretty well even as the technology races forward.
The dive computer should be considered standard equipment. Diving with a computer will give you more bottom time and more safety margin than crude estimating with dive tables. If you are buying your first set of gear, get a computer rather than analog gauges, and you will not regret it. There is a great deal of variation in the design and operation of dive computers. Among the choices you can make are:
- air-integrated or not
- conservative vs. liberal algorithms
- violation lock-out mode
- Nitrox-ready or not
- wrist, console or hose mounted
- dive logging & PC interface
- backlighting for night diving
- auto-on vs. manual-on
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