Hacking

I've been hacking up a storm, and I've made some major improvements to the mobile navigation menus, as you can see in the very meta screenshot above. In fact, it's now almost as good on a cellphone as on a big desktop computer. This website has well over a thousand pages, which calls for excellent navigation features if you're ever going to find anything. That's a real problem on a tiny cellphone screen - where do you put it?

It all lives in that little tab at the upper right, which takes up hardly any screen space. The menu itself is now scrollable, and adapts to whatever space is available. It shows all the relevant directions you could go, almost but not quite the same as the desktop sidebar. The mobile navigation is now so good that I decided to leave it turned on all the time.

I don't believe in the "mobile first" paradigm of web design - I think that results in a crummy design that inflates into a bigger crummy design. My method has always been desktop-first, and if it works on smaller devices too, great. It's always worked pretty well on a tablet, but I am just shocked at how well it works now on a phone.

I also did a lot of hacking on the back-end, mainly to keep track of what WordPress is doing behind my back, and stop it. Like deleting images all on its own! That's not helpful.


mitts

Diving gloves should be close-fitting, with long, gusseted, zippered, or Velcro gauntlets that overlap your suit sleeves. This is especially important with a drysuit, since the glove will protect the delicate wrist seal on the suit. Thin tropical gloves are of very limited use in the north - your gloves should be at least 5mm thick. Three-fingered mitts are much warmer than five-fingered gloves and are really not much clumsier. They are also much easier to get on and off, which makes me wonder why so few people use them. A little spray soap will make any glove easier to get on.

A hood is critical for maintaining warmth in the water. A good hood will be as close-fitting as possible, and have a generous collar for tucking into your wetsuit, thin skin-in seal around the face, and baffled vents in the top to release bubbles. A neck skirt is much less necessary with a drysuit, but it is a simple matter to cut one off if you don't like it. A neoprene cold-water hood should be at least 5-6mm thick.

The face-hole of a hood should be as small as possible - there is no reason to expose any skin here. The face seal of the hood should overlap your mask skirt, with just barely enough room below for your regulator. You can always trim out a too-small face-hole, but a too-big one pretty much negates any other good qualities a hood may have. Ideally, with mask and hood on, you should expose a small patch on each cheek, and no more.