Hydromedusae

Sea Wasp

Although superficially similar to jellyfishes, hydromedusae are more closely related to sessile hydroids. They are much firmer and sturdier in body than jellyfishes. Most are small ( less than 1 inch in diameter ) and do not sting. Others, such as the large and very dangerous Sea Wasp ( 9", right ) do.

hydromedusae
White Cross Hydromedusa
White Cross Hydromedusa - Staurophora mertensi

The White Cross Hydromedusa is found along the coast from the Arctic to Rhode Island. At night it rises to just below the surface. It feeds on other medusae and crustaceans. In the northern part of its range, it is seen from spring through late summer. In the southern range, it is normally found from spring to early summer. It can reach 12" wide and 2" high and is not dangerous to humans.

Many-ribbed Hydromedusa
Many-ribbed Hydromedusa of the Aequorea species

The "many-ribbed" genus of hydromedusae are similar in appearance to clear jellyfishes, but lack obvious tentacles and do not sting when touched. These are among the largest hydromedusae known, up to 12" across, and the identity of their corresponding polyp stage is still a mystery. Hydromedusae are mostly water, and when they dry up they lose half of their diameter and almost all of their thickness, becoming sand dollar-sized thin, brittle discs.

Beached hydromedusae
Beached hydromedusae. By the time they get here, the surf has stripped away all the tentacles, leaving just a harmless dying blob of goo.
Herb Segars Photography

mitts

Diving gloves should be close-fitting, with long, gusseted, zippered, or Velcro gauntlets that overlap your suit sleeves. This is especially important with a drysuit, since the glove will protect the delicate wrist seal on the suit. Thin tropical gloves are of very limited use in the north - your gloves should be at least 5mm thick. Three-fingered mitts are much warmer than five-fingered gloves and are really not much clumsier. They are also much easier to get on and off, which makes me wonder why so few people use them. A little spray soap will make any glove easier to get on.

A hood is critical for maintaining warmth in the water. A good hood will be as close-fitting as possible, and have a generous collar for tucking into your wetsuit, thin skin-in seal around the face, and baffled vents in the top to release bubbles. A neck skirt is much less necessary with a drysuit, but it is a simple matter to cut one off if you don't like it. A neoprene cold-water hood should be at least 5-6mm thick.

The face-hole of a hood should be as small as possible - there is no reason to expose any skin here. The face seal of the hood should overlap your mask skirt, with just barely enough room below for your regulator. You can always trim out a too-small face-hole, but a too-big one pretty much negates any other good qualities a hood may have. Ideally, with mask and hood on, you should expose a small patch on each cheek, and no more.